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Air pollutant
An air pollutant is an impurity in the air which may have a damaging effect on the environment. The origins of an air pollutant may be natural (e.g. sulphur dioxide, SO2, produced by volcanoes) or anthropogenic (produced by mankind).
Ammonia
A colourless, pungent smelling gas, which is highly soluble in water. Ammonia has the chemical formula NH3 and possesses a density of 0.235 g/cm3. The gas is obtained during the putrefaction of plant and animal matter and results from the decomposition of protein. It is, of course, also available in the form of ammonia salts. The aqueous solution (liquid ammonia) reacts when combined with water and this results in the formation of alkaline NH4OH. Ammonia (ammonia water) is a by-product of the fabrication of coal gas and coke. Much greater quantities are obtained synthetically through the combination of elements in accordance with the Haber-Bosch process, which combines nitrogen extracted from the air together with hydrogen under increased pressure and with a raised temperature, whilst in the presence of catalysts. Ammonia is used as a cooling agent in refrigeration machines, in the production of artificial fertilisers and (following combustion to nitrogen oxide) nitric acid and in the manufacturing of sodium carbonate. It is sold in its liquid form in steel cylinders.
Anti-microbial
Aimed against micro-organisms (bacteria, fungus, ricksettia, viruses).
Batiste
Batiste is a very fine but strong, densely woven material (technical term: calico weave), comprising of warp and weft threads.
Blend
A blend is a thread spun using multicoloured fibres. Despite the variety of colours, a blend gives the appearance of being monochromatic and lightly faded.
Burnt-out fabrics
Burnt-out fabrics comprise of two different types of material. The backing cloth is manufactured using fully synthetic materials. Almost all types of cellulose-based fibres can be used for the pattern fabric, e.g.: viscose, cotton, linen, silk or a mixture thereof. A complex production process is used to create the pattern, in which the etching (burning out) of sections of the pattern threads takes place. This method results in the production of a charming pattern made up of both transparent and dense sections of fabric.
Calender
One of the most frequently used machines in the fabric finishing process. The cloth is fed across a number of heated cylinder rollers and is subjected to the requisite cylinder pressure at a fixed temperature. Changes in the pressure, temperature and speed of the rollers produces a variety of results in the fabric. Treatment by a calender provides the cloth with a softer feel, a compact appearance, increased density and smoothness and, if required, a high shine (e.g. as with chintz).
Calico weave
Calico weave is the simplest, densest and most compact form of weaving. In this weave type, the warp and weft threads alternate over and under the next thread.
Causative organism
A living organism that causes illness (pathogen) through its introduction to the body (infection). Its behaviour in the body (reproduction, metabolism etc.) and the reactions of the infected organism to this behaviour result in specific illnesses and infections. Causative organisms include numerous micro-organisms, e.g. various bacteria, fungi, viruses and parasites (e.g. worms and protozoa).
Chenille
Chenille fabric possesses a weft thread which is thick and velvety in texture. It is particularly decorative, falls in soft folds and is very well suited for use in the production of floor coverings.
Coated black-out fabrics
A base fabric with a reverse-side coating, manufactured with a variety of finishes and using various types of material.
Colour fastness
The resistance of colours and prints to a variety of influences, to which the fabric may be subjected during the production (finishing) process and the subsequent use of the textile. Certain specifications (DIN or ISO standards) apply during the testing of colour fastness. There are 5 fastness ratings, with rating 5 being the best and rating 1 being the poorest. There is no such thing as total colour fastness under every condition or circumstance of use. Accordingly, dyes (prints) display a vast variation in behaviour when exposed to sunlight, hot water, salt water etc. The intended use (and requirements thereof) must be made known to the dyer or printer.
Crash
A fully synthetic material which produces the desired wrinkled effect upon shrinking / pressing and subsequent thermal fixing of the fabric’s irregularities, or alternatively following chemical treatment.
Cretonne
Cretonne is a smooth, moderately dense fabric produced from fine cotton threads in calico weave.
Damask
Jacquard fabric is double-faced, possessing both warp-sateen and weft-sateen sides. It is produced on a Jacquard machine. Damask (from Damascus) exhibits uniform variations between warp and weft-sateen, which results in the typical reflections of light and the highlighting of the pattern seen in the fabric.
Dobby weave
Small-patterned fabric with repetitions. In contrast to the other weave styles described, the patterns in dobby weave tend to be small dots, diamonds, checks, strips or floral motifs. The material possesses good shape retention, is very useable and highly versatile.
Dtex
The abbreviation for Decitex: A unit of measurement for thread classification, the weight in grams of 10,000 m of fibres or threads.
Fabric
Textile area-measured material, which is created by the interlacing of two sets of threads at right angles to each other.
Fancy (effect) yarns or fancy twists
Threads with intentional irregularities and inclusions (effects), e.g. bouclé, slub yarn, mercerized yarn, spot yarn, frisé yarn (not to be confused with terry towel).
Finishing
The suitability of a fabric product for certain uses, as well as its actual value, are very much determined by the refinement measures applied during its production. The many finishing treatments in textile refinement include: seasoning, bleaching, decatising, printing, dyeing, calendering, stamping, teasing, polishing and fulling. In addition to these, there are many specialist treatments, such as anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, anti-fungicidal, anti-pilling and anti-static finishes, coatings, non-flammable, stain-resistant and water-resistant finishes, impregnation, and shrink-resistant and moth-proof treatments etc.
Finishing (garment dyeing)
The material is dyed once the weaving process has been completed.
Finishing (thread dyeing)
In this method of dyeing, the dyeing process takes place before the threads have been woven. The subsequent use of the threads in a variety of colours results in the production of a multi-coloured fabric. Depending on the weaving technique used, it is thus possible to use a range of coloured threads to create graphics or floral patterns.
Flame resistance
A self-extinguishing finish, which reduces the level of flammability of textiles, is not always permanent. By contrast, self-extinguishing fibres fall under the category of flame-resistant. Any material which is in use on commercial property should be flame-resistant. These requirements are fulfilled by man-made synthetic fibres, the self-extinguishing modification to which is made to the raw fibre material prior to processing (e.g. Trevira CS, modacrylic and fibreglass). The textiles produced using these yarns melt slowly and the fire extinguishes because it has no source of its own. Man-made fibres can also be made flame-resistant through the application of finishing treatments, although in such cases the characteristic is not permanent.
Flame-resistant curtains and furnishing materials produced using Trevira CS
Trevira CS fibres belong to a group known as polyester fibres, although this safety fibre is created with the additional inclusion of a small quantity of a phosphor-organic component, which ensures that it remains permanently flame-resistant in accordance with DIN 4102, B1 and other European standards. It was previously only possible to produce flame-resistant textiles during their chemical finishing process, which resulted in problems in many cases. These included the environmental impact and the durability of the finish following repeated cleaning processes. It is possible to avoid all of these problems by utilising a permanently modified fibre.
Textiles manufactured using Trevira CS do not only fulfil the fire standards, but also conform with other important standards applicable to home textiles, such as light-resistance, wear resistance and care requirements.
Flame-retardant fabrics
Flame-retardant threads and fabrics manufactured from the polyester fibre Trevira CS (C = comfort, S = safety) guarantee effective protection against fire. They are permanently flame-retardant because the flame-retardant agent is an integrated part of the molecular structure. In general terms, fabrics manufactured using flame-retardant polyester fibres are particularly durable, easy to care for, kind to the skin and non-iron. They are particularly highly valued for their wear resistance and their resistance to fading when used in the production of furniture.
Foulard [dyeing machine]
A dyeing machine employed for the processes of squeezing, washing, dyeing and impregnating etc. during the wet treatment of fabrics and knitwear. The material travels through a trough containing the treatment solution. Following this it is fed, wrinkle-free, through two or more drawing rollers which squeeze the excess solution from the material and transport it on to the next stage.
Germs
Germ is a collective term, which was originally derived from the word hygiene.
The term refers to micro-organisms which are able to reproduce, such as bacteria, fungi, algae etc. Bacteria are also commonly referred to as germs.
(bacterial water contamination)
Hand printing
In this old technique, the dye is transferred to the fabric using a wooden model; the template is carved into the specialist wood.
Iron-fast finish
Resistance of dyes and prints on fabrics of every type, and following all levels of processing, to ironing, pressing and handling in heated cylinder dryers.
ISO
International Standardisation Organisation; this organisation unites the standardisation organisations of 87 countries. ISO 9000, for example, was conceived in order to comprehensively control and steer quality assurance activities.
Jacquard
A collective term for materials with woven patterns. Jacquard fabric is created using a specialist piece of equipment, which enables the variations in the pattern form including structured repeats. The fabric may be monochromatic and inherently patterned. The inclusion of coloured yarns results in the creation of multi-coloured designs. The fabric possesses good shape retention, is very useable and highly versatile.
Jigger
Dyeing machines used for colouring wide reams of fabric. The fabric requiring dyeing is wound onto a roller (in lengths of up to 3800 m), run through a dye bath and subsequently fed off onto a second roller. The machinery is reset and the process repeated until the dye is locked into the fabric. The individual passages are termed “ends”. The number of passages depends on the process and the fabric type, although 4 to 8 repeats is considered to be roughly average.
Light resistance
The resistance of colours and prints to the effects of daylight, the influence of the weather or of artificial light. It is technically impossible to use the most light resistant dyes on every type of fabric when printing or dyeing.
Mixed fibres
Mixed fibres are fabric compositions which are created using natural fibres, natural fibres mixed with synthetic man-made fibres or a variety of synthetic fibres. These fabric mixtures generally combine to provide the user with the majority of the advantages of each of the materials used: For example the combining of cotton and polyester provides the excellent wear comfort provided by the natural fibre, complimented by the advantageous care requirements offered by the synthetic fibre. A mixture using elastic fibres is also highly popular.
Moiré
Moiré is a wavy, watermark pattern which has a shimmering matt finish. The base material is a taffeta or ribbed fabric. The threads used may comprise of viscose fibres. Pure moiré is produced by the moistening of the fabric and the subsequent placement of one length over the top of another. The fabrics are then pressed together using rollers. The shape of the lines which result from this process cannot be further influenced. In the case of synthetic moiré, the pattern is pressed into the fabric using heated rollers.
Muslin
Sturdy and light, woven fabric (calico weave) produced using loosely turned threads, which makes it very soft to the touch.
Odorants and flavouring enhancers
Substances which have no direct influence on the nutritional value of consumables, but which are an important component in enabling their utilisation by organisms. They promote an appetite and encourage the production of digestive juices. Flavouring enhancers are a natural ingredient in foodstuffs. They can be added in the form of herbs and spices, or may be produced during the preparation process, e.g. during baking, frying or roasting. They may also be the result of enzymatic influences, which often occur due to the activities of micro-organisms. In chemical terms they belong to a wide range of classes, such as acids, salts, forms of sugar, essential oils etc. In contrast to flavouring agents, odorants are non-volatile / only very slightly volatile. Important flavouring enhancers include table salt, vinegar and sugar.
Organza
High-shine, veil-like fabric produced with very fine warp and weft threads, although very strong to the touch.
Panama weave
In the case of Panama weave, two warp and two weft threads will most often be placed adjacent to one another, alternating over and under the next threads. This creates a unique weave pattern. The decorative characteristic depends on the type of material used.
Pattern
Woven, printed or stamped design with dyed areas, outlines and contours, graduations and overlaps of colour.
Plain fabric
Monochromatic fabric, which is most often garment-dyed and seldom yarn-dyed or flock-dyed. The term is not synonymous with having no pattern, as plain fabrics can obtain a pattern through the weaving process.
Poly-acrylic fibres
Synthetic manmade fibre. Characteristics: Excellent wear and with a wool-like feel, high heat-retaining capacity, short drying times, thermo-fixable heat resistance. Caution: Maximum iron heat, first setting! Easily soiled, inclined to static charging. Polyacrylnitril absorbs 1 - 1.5% moisture in air humidity levels of 65% without feeling damp.
Polyamide
Synthetic man-made fibre. Characteristics: Excellent wear resistance and tensile strength, short drying times, crease resistance, limited heat-retaining capacity, easily soiled, inclined to static charging. Polyamide absorbs 3.5 – 4.5% moisture in air humidity levels of 65% without feeling damp.
Polyester
Synthetic man-made fibre. Characteristics: Excellent wear resistance and tensile strength, short drying times, excellent shape retention, thermo-fixable, easily soiled, inclined to static charging propensity to pilling. Polyester absorbs 0.4 – 0.7% moisture in air humidity levels of 65% without feeling damp.
Printed fabrics
Depending on fabric type, straight thread printing and finishing may not be possible. This also applies to straight thread processing. Screen printing results in irregularities in the pattern repeat and the dye application as a result of manual finishing; these are the characteristics of screen printing. Gold and silver printing dyes may lose some of their pigmentation during cleaning.
Product-typical characteristic
A product-typical characteristic is not a fault, but is instead a characteristic which is related to the production process or the material, and which cannot be influenced. Product-typical characteristics are the result of the manufacturing technique, the make-up of the product or the material composition.
Repeat
The recurrence of a motif within a pattern. The distance between repetitions is commonly quoted in cm.
Ribs (or less commonly repps)
Ribs can be recognised by the ribbed pattern in the weave. Both diagonal and vertical ribs exist. In the case of diagonal ribs, the ribbing runs diagonally in the direction of the weft (one speaks of weft ribs). In the case of vertical ribs, these run in the warp direction (one refers to warp ribs).
Roller pressure
Each individual colour is transferred to the fabric in an even manner using a roller. It is possible to use up to 16 rollers, which enables the production of a wide range of colours and patterns.
Sateen / satin
Sateen and satin are fabrics with smooth, shiny top surfaces and dull undersides, which are the result of the weaving technique. In the case of weft-sateen, the top surface is created using the weft threads, whereas the warp threads are used for the top surface when producing warp-sateen. The material is highly versatile and possesses excellent decorative characteristics.
Screen printing
In this process a sieve is used as a screen. The areas of the sieve at which no pattern is required are covered and the dye is then transferred to the fabric through the sections of the sieve that remain open. Multi-repetition patterns are possible using this method.
Scuff resistance furniture fabric
Standard of valuation for furniture fabric in terms of its wear characteristics (wear value). The scuff resistance is defined by a specimen fabric’s resistance to chafing. Decorative furnishing fabrics, furniture fabric clients.
Sheared effect
Sheared effect is the description given to a complex and specialist type of curtain patterning. The pattern is produced by the additional working in of threads to a backing cloth. The threads, which connect the individual patterns, are cut or sheared either by hand or using a machine.
Solution
Treatment fluid used during the finishing and washing processes.
Taffeta
Smooth, calico weave fabric produced from silk or man-made fibres.
Transfer printing
During this dry transfer process the pattern is initially printed on paper before the dyes are transferred to the fabric via a drum. The process uses heat effect. This type of printing enables the application of very fine graduations of colour and also provides the image with very sharp contouring. In the case of fabrics with fine threads, the dye transfer is barely visible and does not affect the decorative nature of the material.
Trevira ® bioactive
This multi-functional fibre with bio-active characteristics is used in the production of clothing and bed linens. In contrast to products which have been treated, the anti-bacterial effects and particularly hygienic nature of this fibre are not achieved through additional treatment processes, but are instead integrated characteristics of the fibres. The fibres are therefore able to retain these characteristics permanently, independent of the subsequent stresses placed on the material. Trevira bioactive, which is patent-protected worldwide, is effective against all common forms and types of bacteria. Its effectiveness has been tested and confirmed in numerous trials, including those carried out by the Hohenstein Research Institute. The Eco-Tex marks stands for the ecological harmlessness of a fibre. Eco-Tex Standard 100.
The new fibre may be combined with a vast range of textiles and natural materials and can be employed in a multitude of areas. The antibacterial effects complement the known beneficial characteristics of the various Trevira fibres and provide the user with a further advantage.
Twill
The weaving process used in the production of twill results in the creation of a diagonal parallel ribbed effect. A variety of twill designs exist. With warp twill, more warp threads are seen on the upper side of the fabric than weft threads. In the case of weft twill, more weft threads are seen than warp. The decorative characteristics are dependant on the material and the finishing.
Velour = velveteen / velvet
Velour is the technical term for fabric with a fur pile. Velveteen has a pile height of up to 2 mm, whilst velvet possesses a pile height of between 2 and 4 mm. Decorative velour fabrics are generally produced using cotton. When used in furnishings and valances, velour is almost always machined in such a way that the pile runs in the warp direction, from top to bottom. It is also possible to work with the velour pile running in the opposite direction. When using velour in furnishings, it is always necessary to line the fabric. This covers up lights spots and prevents pile loss. Velour is particularly useful in interior furnishings due to its soft drop.
Voile
Fine woven fabric (calico weave) manufactured using highly twisted polyester continuous filament yarns or cotton. Highly versatile, very decorative and hangs in soft folds.
Warp (fabric)
The horizontal threads in a fabric.
Warp printing
Warp threads are first printed before being woven. Once the weaving process is complete the result is very attractive, soft fabric colours. This appearance is achieved because the print is subsequently blurred by the addition of the weft yarns. Used in the field of furnishing fabrics. Warp printing
Weaving
Weaving the most common form of textile manufacturing. Weaving refers to the right-angled crossing of a minimum of two sets of threads. If the sets of threads do not run at a 90° angle to one another, i.e. diagonally, then one refers to this as plaiting. The product that results from the weaving process is known as the fabric.